Monday, September 19, 2016

Enchanted Islands, a Farwell




Beach at Cabbage Island
We departed Ganges on Salt Spring Island at 10am bound for Cabbage and Tumbo Islands, a National Park Reserve within the Gulf Islands of British Columbia.  Located off the southeast end of Saturna Island, the tiny islands of Cabbage and Tumbo are exposed to the north winds blowing down the Strait of Georgia.  Winds predicted for the evening would be coming from the southeast allowing Saturna Island to act as a shield and provide a relatively comfortable anchorage.  
Got d' Fever at Cabbage and Tumbo Islands
We arrived at Cabbage Island just before 1pm and tied to one of the Park buoys.  The sandy beach glistened in the afternoon sun beckoning us to come ashore.  We paid the Park fee at the self-registration box and hiked along the shoreline among the beautiful stands of Garry Oak, Arbutus (Madrones), and coastal Douglas fir. 
 

Tumbo Island
Neighboring Tumbo Island is equally beautiful with bright red Arbutus bending over the shoreline of sculptured sandstone and tide pools.  As reported in the Waggoner Cruising Guide, coal mining was attempted on Tumbo Island in the early 1900’s but the shafts flooded and so the effort was abandoned.  
Shoreline of Tumbo Island
During the 1920’s and 1930’s a farm was established to raise foxes on the island.  We motored the dinghy over to Tumbo Island to see if we could find remnants of the old homestead and anchored the dinghy off-shore.  As we hiked along the trail still visible from wear, we approached a house surrounded by an old orchard including a tree bearing peaches, the house was abandoned and boarded-up.  
Inviting Rope Swing on Tumbo Island
As we continued walking east along the shore, we came to a rope swing hanging from a large oak tree extending over the water; a row of Lombardy Poplar trees ran along the shoreline as if intended to be a windbreak.  
Row Boats found among the Orchard and Fields of Tumbo Is.
Our curiosity was now growing by the minute; heading inland we came upon another stand of orchard trees with remnants of row boats scattered about.  
Old Homestead on Tumbo Island
Soon we spotted what appeared to have been the original homestead of the fox farm: a few out-buildings, an old log cabin, and a house looking to be from the 1930’s, all of which were boarded-up and locked for safe keeping.  
The Farm Plow
  
The Old Log Cabin, Tumbo Island
Deer at home on Tumbo Island
The only animals we saw on the Island were deer grazing in the open meadows, they stared at us as if we were strange new creatures in their world.  
What Stories Lie Within?
Tumbo Island is another one of those magical places with stories untold.  
Heading across Boundary Pass into U.S. Waters
Tomorrow we would cross Boundary Pass into U.S. waters but we would carry with us the memories of the enchanted islands of Jedediah, Tumbo, Chicagof, and Haida Gwaii, home of the Haida people, in addition to many other places of enchanted beauty and hidden secrets.

Saturday, September 17, 2016

At The Fair





 
"The Pig"
Our rendezvous with friends Bob and Shino in Ganges coincided with the Fall Fair on Salt Spring Island, and a fun fair it was!  The old-fashioned country fair was a showcase of prize winning livestock, including sheep, horses, chicken, turkeys, and “the pig;” we even found "Charlotte's Web" hanging above the barn door.    
Sheep Shearing
Farming demonstrations included blacksmithing, saw milling, wool processing, sheep shearing, and sheep herding by well-trained dogs.  
Sheep Dog Controlling Her Sheep
We had seen sheep shearing before but had never seen a dog actually herd sheep into a pen, a fascinating process to watch.  Antique cars, old tractors, and an operating thrashing machine were also on the grounds along with food vendors and a variety of live music for entertainment.  
Shepherd and Sheep Dog
One of the most popular events was the “Zucchini Races” which lasted a good part of the day due to the many entrees for the event.  
Zucchinis Ready to Race
Zucchinis of various sizes are decorated and wheels added to create a zucchini go-cart.  The zucchini go-carts are released down a track with three different lanes and a winner declared for each heat; winners participate later in the final heats.  
The Zucchini Races
Depending on the design of weight and balance, some of the zucchinis finished the race while others flew off the track and landed in a heap, what fun!  Of course no fair is complete without the prized produce from local gardens and homemade pies and cakes receiving ribbons along with jams, brews, and artistic crafts.  
Farm Tractors at Fair Grounds
This fun, community Fall Fair is sponsored by the Salt Spring Farmer’s Institute which was Founded in 1895.  The Institute owns ten acres which include exhibition halls, livestock buildings, show rings, an outdoor stage, and a museum.  The goal of the Institute is to support Island farmers and encourage preservation and development of agriculture on Salt Spring Island.  The Museum on the grounds is housed in an 1884 house which was built in the village of Vesuvius on Salt Spring Island and later moved to the Farmers’ Institute property in 1980.  
The Museum
The Museum is filled with donated items given by families of the Island covering the early settlers from the 1880’s until the 1950’s.  The artifacts at the Museum are quite interesting and the archival photographs are excellent.  

Free bus service was provided to and from the fairgrounds, but by late afternoon there was such a long line for the bus going back to town that we decided to walk; the terrain is flat the entire way so it was an easy walk of just under a mile.  
A Donkey Yawns at the Fair
After a short rest at one of our favorite coffee shops, we joined Bob and Shino for a dockside party at the marina.  Owners of “Sea Sport” boats, like Bob’s and Shino’s boat, had planned a potluck get-together and they kindly invited us to join the group.  We were happy to meet such delightful people and had a wonderful time, such a pleasant way to end the day.

Friday, September 16, 2016

A Rendezvous with Friends

 

 
Sunrise at Ganges on Salt Spring Island

Friends Bob and Shino arrived in Ganges aboard their boat for a great weekend together on Salt Spring Island. 
After a lovely sunrise, we met for breakfast at the Tree House Café, a heritage cottage with an open-air patio embraced by a beautiful plum tree as its center piece.  The small building was built in 1920 and served as the site of the first electrical generating station on the Island.  
Shino and Lorena at Breakfast in Ganges
The cottage later served as a home for Aunt Margaret of the famous Island Mouat family, owners of the Mouat’s Home & Hardware store which still operates today as the community’s general store.  Now awake after a good breakfast, we were ready for some adventure; the four of us with fold-up bicycles in-hand caught the local bus service to Fulford Harbour located on the south end of the Island.  The tiny village of Fulford includes a couple of boutiques, a small grocery, and two cafes.  
The Tree House Café, a favorite in Ganges
Fulford Harbour also serves as the Ferry Landing for the Island, running between Fulford and Victoria.  Pleasure boaters visiting the south end of Salt Spring Island can find moorage at the Public Wharf and Public Floats located next to the ferry landing, these docks are best suited for smaller size craft.  After offloading our bikes from the bus, we were on our way to the Salt Spring Island Cheese Farm located three and a half miles from Fulford.  
Lovely Gardens at the Island Cheese Farm
Although the distance is not great, the terrain is a little hilly as are most island roads.  With our heavy fold-up bicycles and out-of-shape legs, we had to get off and push the bikes uphill now and then but we reached our destination without too much agony.  Entrance into the Farm is through a tree-lined country road that ends at the Farm’s lovely gardens where visitors can purchase cold drinks and ice cream cones, a nice reward for the long climb.  
The Hen House
Inside the small farm store, visitors can purchase rounds of goat cheese after tasting a variety of free samples.  Children and adults alike love seeing the farm animals, including chickens, baby chicks, and of course the goats.  
A Cute Looking Goat
We went on a self-guided tour around the building where the cheese is made, peering through the windows to watch the hand-made process of cheese making.  The making of goat cheese goes back thousands of years and is still an art form today as well as a science.  Goat cheese is made by combining warmed goat’s milk with vinegar or lemon juice to cause separation of the curds from the whey.  
The Buck
Rennet can be added as a coagulating agent to produce firmer curds, either vegetable rennet or animal rennet.  The curds are then bundled in cheesecloth and hung so the moisture (whey) can drip out.  Salt is added to the curds to enhance flavor and also acts as a preservative.  Fresh goat cheese ripens (ages) for only a few days or weeks.  
Curds and Whey
After tasting the samples of the Farm’s fresh made cheese, Leonard purchased a round of Herb & Garlic Goat Cheese and a small jar of Raspberry Habanero Jam, a nice combination.  
The Farm Cheese Factory
Different varieties of olives are also available for purchase at the Farm Store.  
Nice Rounds of Goat Cheese
Keeping the bus schedule in mind, it was soon time to ride our bikes back to Fulford and catch the bus back home to Ganges, a nap before dinner sounded like a good idea.

Thursday, September 15, 2016

Along the Way


After our hike across Jedediah Island, we released our stern-line and brought up the anchor to continue crossing the Strait of Georgia.  The winds had diminished and the seas held a 2-foot chop with clear skies overhead.  
Mt. Baker in Washington State seen from the Strait of Georgia in British Columbia!
Another glorious day, in fact it was so clear that we could see across the entire Strait revealing the mountain peaks of Northern British Columbia and the mountain backbone of Vancouver Island.  Most unexpected was the sight of Mt. Baker in Washington State seen to the east on the horizon as if sitting on the water.  It had never been this clear in past years for us to see this unusual perspective of Mt. Baker, a real treat.  The crossing was uneventful except for the occasional warnings heard over the VHF Radio that “Whiskey Golf” (WG) was “active” with Navy warships testing torpedoes and other systems in this deep water “restricted area.”  One pleasure boat apparently strayed into the boundary of WG and was promptly told that they would be escorted out of the area by helicopter.  I think that was the Navy’s polite way of saying we can escort you out by helicopter or we can blow you out of the area!  We kept well clear of this active restricted zone located north of Nanaimo and tucked behind the Ballenas Islands, reaching Nanaimo around 4pm.  
Flat Rocky Shoreline on Newcastle Island, Nanaimo
Once we reached Nanaimo, we found dock space at the Newcastle Island Provincial Marine Park so we couldn’t pass it up, Java loves to romp about the Island chasing after her Frisbee; this was her first opportunity to play with her new Frisbee having given up her old Frisbee to Buddy, the dog back at Butedale some weeks ago.  It was a hot afternoon so the play was cut short followed by a dip in the ocean to cool off.  
Java's Seaside Dip in the Ocean
After Java had her dinner and bath, it was our turn to take in a favorite stop, The Dinghy Dock Pub located next door on Protection Island.  Arriving by dinghy at the floating pub is always a treat and you can’t beat the views of Nanaimo just across the bay.  
The Dinghy Dock Pub
We enjoyed the usual good beer on tap, the good food, and time to relax with a nice evening ride back to the boat.  The following day was spent in downtown Nanaimo picking up a few groceries, getting haircuts, and sipping coffee at one of the many cafes.  Nanaimo is always a fun and vibrant town in which to spend an afternoon.  Departing at 8am, we headed for Dodd Narrows arriving at slack water for an easy transition.  
Dinghy Dock Pub with views of Nanaimo
We paraded through the narrow opening with a boat behind us and a boat in front of us while a tug with a long log-boom waited on the other side for the right time to go through.  It is customary for boaters, especially large boats and commercial vessels to announce over the VHF Radio when they are entering Dodd Narrows indicating their direction of travel.  
Dodd Narrows at Slack Water
Once through the Narrows we were heading for our next planned stop, Ganges on Salt Spring Island but first a little sightseeing along the way. 
Wallace Island Marine Park
Located between Galliano Island and the north end of Saltspring Island is a small set of islands (Secretary Islands) and the Marine Park of Wallace Island with two small coves that have stern-tie rings.  The larger of the two coves is Princess Cove which is long and narrow requiring a stern-tie.  Likewise Conover Cove on the south end of Wallace Island has a few stern-ties and a small float for boats 36 feet or less.  
Wallace Island Marine Park
Although Wallace Island is tiny, it looks to be a fun place to hike and explore.  After a “looksee,” we continued on to Ganges on Salt Spring Island, the busiest and most popular stop in the Gulf Islands.

Tuesday, September 13, 2016

Paradise Found on Jedediah




Departing Powell River
We left Powell River on a beautiful sunny day and continued south along Malaspina Strait then headed back north along Sabine Channel between Texada Island and Lasquetti Island lying within the Strait of Georgia.  Located between these two central islands is the small marine Park of Jedediah.  We had read about this beautiful Marine Park and had also read that the coves on Jedediah Island are quite deep and tight, while others go dry at low tide, a challenge to find suitable anchorage.  
Deep Bay, Jedediah Island
Maybe we could anchor in Boho Bay on Lasquetti Island and take the dinghy over to Jedediah.  We motored into Boho Bay but could not get the anchor to set on the rocky bottom and felt uncomfortable about leaving the boat unattended.  Motoring back towards Jedediah Island, we entered the small cove of Deep Bay on the northwest end of the Island and saw that there were chains with rope along the rock wall for stern-ties.  
Leonard looping the stern line through the on-shore eyelet
We counted a dozen stern-tie installations in this small cove and couldn’t imagine how a dozen boats could fit in the bay but at least boaters have several stern-ties from which to choose.  
Bringing Stern Line back to the boat
Seeing that we were the only boat in the bay, it seemed like a good opportunity to practice our stern-tie which is not always a simple matter with only two people.  The first step was to set the anchor off the bow and back down to set, then attach the spool of line on the stern and get the dinghy launched.  Leonard motored the dinghy into shore and put the stern line through the loop on the shore-tie,  bringing the line back to Got d’ Fever where the line is tied down to a cleat on the boat.  
Stern Line
While Leonard was managing the shore-tie, I was letting out chain on the bow anchor as needed.  Once the stern line had been brought back to the boat, slack in the line was taken in.  We used hand-held radios for communication but sometimes you run out of hands!  Leonard needed to hold onto the “painter line” so the dinghy didn’t float away and another hand on the “stern-line” to be drawn through the eye of the loop on shore.  Mission accomplished, Got d’ Fever could now remain perpendicular to shore and not circle around in the wind taking up room or hitting another rock wall nearby.  
Stern-tied in Deep Bay, Jedediah Island
Just as we were heading out of the bay with the dinghy to explore the Island, another boat came into the bay and we motored over to see if they wanted any help with their stern-tie, yes indeed was the reply from the three women onboard.  They had tried to anchor in another bay on the Island but a boat had already taken the space; they saw that we were stern-tied and came in to see if they could do the same.  We motored their stern line to shore and back to their boat; they were so thankful for the help.  Our “Good Samaritan” deed done, we headed out to motor around the island and explore some of the other coves.  
Beautiful Jedediah Marine Park
The tranquil setting and ocean vistas from the Island are inspiring; the open forest and meadows are interrupted by large rock outcroppings and bluffs rising from the sea.  As we entered Home Bay, we saw an abandoned house on the bluff, the tide was in so we could motor up to the make-shift dock in front of the homestead and climb up the rock-face.  
Old Homestead in Home Bay on Jedediah Island
What an incredibly beautiful spot and what a lovely home this must have been.  Who had lived here? And what stories had they taken with them?  
A Wonderful Place to Live
We stared at the house that seemed to be speaking to us from its empty windows.  Behind the house lay an open grassy meadow filled with fruit trees.  Walking along what must have been a stone fence or pathway, we came upon a barn with an old tractor and plow, as if waiting in silence for someone to return.  
The Barn
Stepping out of the dark barn into the sunlight, we saw two sheep running off into the forest, perhaps descendants of a once tame flock.  At the edge of what looked like an open field for sowing wheat, stood a sign that helped shed light on this mysterious and intriguing place.  The entire Island was purchased by the Foote Family in 1890 after a Crown Grant was issued to private owners around 1885.  
Views from the House in Home Bay, Jedediah Island
The Foote Family lived here for over 30 years, they cleared a pasture, established an orchard, and planted gardens.  The next owners were Mr. and Mrs. Henry Hughes, he was from Ireland and purchased the property in 1920.  After marrying an English nurse, he and his wife lived on the property for 29 years.  
The Old Orchard
The last owners of the property were Alan and Mary Palmer who bought the property as a vacation getaway in 1949.  Beginning in 1972, they moved to the Island to become full-time residents, it’s not surprising that they fell in love with this amazing Island paradise.  In addition to the brief history regarding who had once live here, also posted was a trail map showing how we could hike across the island from our anchorage in Deep Bay.  
One of Several Small Bays on Jedediah Island
We were looking forward to tomorrow’s hike but now it was time to continue with the dinghy around the Island before night closed in on us.  After breakfast the following morning, we paddled the kayaks ashore and placed them above the high tide line.  Signage with a trail map is posted just upland from Deep Bay; but since we had printed a copy of the map from my photo, we didn’t need to rely on memory.  As it turned out, the trail was wide, easy to follow, and well maintained.  Even though the Island is 243 hectares (600.5 acres), the walk was only a short one mile to reach the homestead.  
A Feral Goat Standing Watch
Since the Island has never been subjected to commercial logging, old-growth Douglas fir and Cedar are impressive to behold in addition to the beautiful Arbutus perched along the rocky outcroppings.  Standing above us on a rocky knoll were several feral goats; one goat stopped to stare down at us as if keeping watch over his harem.  
Old Wheat Field at Homestead, Jedediah Island
Reaching the end of the forest, we were now in the open field once plowed for hay on the back side of the homestead.  As we approached the barn, a flock of sheep had come to graze, looking for their lost family among the gnarled orchard trees of apples, cherries, and plum.  The Island’s mild, dry, semi-Mediterranean climate no-doubt was good for farming.  
The Old Tractor Sits Silent
Next to a collapsed out-building Leonard found what appeared to be an olive tree, yes he reached out and “extended an olive branch.”  Under cover of a small shed we found an old trunk; had it been left behind by the first owners from the late 1880’s?

  
The Old Trunk



We walked around the homestead absorbing the peace and tranquility, passing a fence post here and there.  The tide had gone out and two Raccoons came to harvest clams and oysters on the tidal flats while a Red-crested Woodpecker perched in an old apple tree.  A rope swing hangs motionless below the house; did children once live here?  Where are they now and do the children or grandchildren ever come back to visit this place?  Such thoughts, such yearnings, such silence.  
Plaque Honoring Al and Mary Palmer
Two plaques are found at the homestead, one in honor of Alan and Mary Palmer who didn’t want the Island to be developed when they were gone and wished to conserve the Island for future generations to enjoy.  The Palmers sold this enchanting Island for less than it was worth to the Provincial Government in December 1994 to be used as a Marine Park.  Several organizations and individuals contributed money towards the purchase of the property; the Government contributed 2.6 million of the 4.2 million dollar purchase leaving the balance of the cost up to individuals of British Columbia.  The other plaque on the property is in honor of Dan Culver, whose estate contributed 1.1 million for the Island’s preservation.  Dan died in 1993 at the age of 41 while descending K2, the world’s second highest mountain.  He had reached the summit of both Mt. Everest and K2 and designated in his Will that a portion of his estate be set aside for an ecologically valuable coastal property.  He was a sailor and loved the sea as well as the mountains.  Dan, like so many others, have found inspiration in the most beautiful of places.  
The Hayloft
We found it hard to leave this magical Island as we walked back through the forest taking in the fresh smell of the woods and ocean seaside.  A stiff wind had come up rustling the trees suggesting it might be rough crossing the Strait of Georgia but I didn’t care, I had experienced paradise.