Native Village of Angoon



View of Chatham Strait from Angoon

Boat Harbor at Angoon

Departing Point Moses on the east side of Baranof Island, we crossed the large body of water called Chatham Strait, the Strait was glassy smooth, perfect waterskiing conditions which seemed very unusual.  We arrived at the Tlingit Native village of Angoon on Admiralty Island, making our way behind a peninsula into Kootznahoo Inlet during slack water; current through the narrow entrance can run to 7 knots, boiling over rocks and reefs.  

Kootznahoo Inlet, Angoon

Aptly named, the word “Angoon” is Tlingit for “isthmus town.”  The Tlingit name for the Island is Xu’t’snuwu, meaning fortress of the bears; more than 90 percent of the Island is a Federally designated wilderness, although the harbormaster told us the best place to see bears is at the local garbage dump, the food is free and easily accessible.  Like most Native villages the population is small at 460 residents and is one of the poorest Native communities.  

Houses and Historic Orthodox Church, Angoon

Houses are modest with the newer homes looking to be from the 1970’s and 80’s with a row of older “clan houses” along the waterfront; some of these clan houses are still occupied while most of them have been boarded up, perhaps due to an aging population or change in life style.  Near the “clan houses” stands an abandoned Russian Orthodox Church recognizable by its architectural style.  The Church is listed on the National Register of Historic places built 1928-1929 after the previous church structure was destroyed by fire.  There is a short trail, overgrown with berry bushes that leads to the Church;  unfortunately, the Church is closed and boarded up due to previous vandalism and lack of funds to keep the site open.  

Clan Houses

In the late 1800’s, the Northwest Trading Co. employed Angoon villagers to hunt whales and established a school and the Orthodox Church.  In 1882 an unfortunate incident occurred on one of the vessels, a Native Medicine Man was accidently killed by an explosion from the misfire of a harpoon.  Villagers demanded 200 blankets for the man’s family as was the custom.  The Northwest Trading Co. sought help from the U.S. Navy which ended up shelling and destroying the Village.  In 1973 Angoon won a $90,000 settlement from the U.S. Government for the 1882 bombardment. 

Clan Houses

During our visit we did not see much evidence of the continuation of Native art and traditions or any effort being made for tourism.  The only totems in town are found in front of an old tribal community building.  Perhaps this is an indication of a changing population or lingering wounds from the past.  

Whale Clan House

There are also some old markings on the clan houses indicating the family's clan name such as Raven, Salmon, Whale etc.  The main points of interest in town seem to be the old church, the old clan houses, the one small grocery store, and of course the local garbage dump for bear viewings – sad but true.  You won’t find any department stores, cafes, pubs, coffee shops, or gift shops in Angoon but I still managed to make a purchase in support of the “local economy.”  We needed a low-wattage toaster for the boat and I found just the right one at the grocery store.  Leonard was impressed that I could find something to buy even in the tiny village of Angoon.  

One of several Abandoned Homes

On a more positive note, the scenery around Angoon is spectacular looking west over Chatham Strait backed by snow covered mountains, and also looking east over Kootznahoo Inlet and its back bays.  I should mention that there are two private fishing lodges in town which fly in guests for fishing and whale watching expeditions during the summer months.  Whales are active around Danger Point and often bubble feed creating a spectacular show.  

Old Totems at Tribal Community Building

Apparently kayakers use Angoon as a starting point for the “Cross Island Canoe Route” from Angoon to Mole Harbor on the other side of the Island in Seymour Canal – the route has several portage’s and cabins along the way, an arduous but beautiful journey for the more adventuresome kayakers.   Access to Angoon is by private boat, ferry, or seaplane.  

Mitchell Bay (part of the Cross Island Canoe Route) 

The following day we took the dinghy to explore the back bays of Kootznahoo Inlet; traveling northeast up a long channel we reached the beautiful wilderness of Mitchell Bay.  We had traveled five and a-half miles to this point; the Bay continues another three miles to Davis Creek Passage which then leads into the four-five mile long Kanalku Bay.  

Favorite Bay

Since we were at the beginning of a flood tide, we turned around at this point so as not to get caught in the strong currents and rip tides when exiting the area.  Once back out into Kootznahoo Inlet, we motored southeast into another bay called Favorite Bay, a popular spot for crabbing as the depths are relatively shallow.  This entire area is a great place to explore by dinghy or kayak with careful planning around the tides.

Sunset over Kootznahoo Inlet, Angoon