Tuesday, September 13, 2016

Paradise Found on Jedediah




Departing Powell River
We left Powell River on a beautiful sunny day and continued south along Malaspina Strait then headed back north along Sabine Channel between Texada Island and Lasquetti Island lying within the Strait of Georgia.  Located between these two central islands is the small marine Park of Jedediah.  We had read about this beautiful Marine Park and had also read that the coves on Jedediah Island are quite deep and tight, while others go dry at low tide, a challenge to find suitable anchorage.  
Deep Bay, Jedediah Island
Maybe we could anchor in Boho Bay on Lasquetti Island and take the dinghy over to Jedediah.  We motored into Boho Bay but could not get the anchor to set on the rocky bottom and felt uncomfortable about leaving the boat unattended.  Motoring back towards Jedediah Island, we entered the small cove of Deep Bay on the northwest end of the Island and saw that there were chains with rope along the rock wall for stern-ties.  
Leonard looping the stern line through the on-shore eyelet
We counted a dozen stern-tie installations in this small cove and couldn’t imagine how a dozen boats could fit in the bay but at least boaters have several stern-ties from which to choose.  
Bringing Stern Line back to the boat
Seeing that we were the only boat in the bay, it seemed like a good opportunity to practice our stern-tie which is not always a simple matter with only two people.  The first step was to set the anchor off the bow and back down to set, then attach the spool of line on the stern and get the dinghy launched.  Leonard motored the dinghy into shore and put the stern line through the loop on the shore-tie,  bringing the line back to Got d’ Fever where the line is tied down to a cleat on the boat.  
Stern Line
While Leonard was managing the shore-tie, I was letting out chain on the bow anchor as needed.  Once the stern line had been brought back to the boat, slack in the line was taken in.  We used hand-held radios for communication but sometimes you run out of hands!  Leonard needed to hold onto the “painter line” so the dinghy didn’t float away and another hand on the “stern-line” to be drawn through the eye of the loop on shore.  Mission accomplished, Got d’ Fever could now remain perpendicular to shore and not circle around in the wind taking up room or hitting another rock wall nearby.  
Stern-tied in Deep Bay, Jedediah Island
Just as we were heading out of the bay with the dinghy to explore the Island, another boat came into the bay and we motored over to see if they wanted any help with their stern-tie, yes indeed was the reply from the three women onboard.  They had tried to anchor in another bay on the Island but a boat had already taken the space; they saw that we were stern-tied and came in to see if they could do the same.  We motored their stern line to shore and back to their boat; they were so thankful for the help.  Our “Good Samaritan” deed done, we headed out to motor around the island and explore some of the other coves.  
Beautiful Jedediah Marine Park
The tranquil setting and ocean vistas from the Island are inspiring; the open forest and meadows are interrupted by large rock outcroppings and bluffs rising from the sea.  As we entered Home Bay, we saw an abandoned house on the bluff, the tide was in so we could motor up to the make-shift dock in front of the homestead and climb up the rock-face.  
Old Homestead in Home Bay on Jedediah Island
What an incredibly beautiful spot and what a lovely home this must have been.  Who had lived here? And what stories had they taken with them?  
A Wonderful Place to Live
We stared at the house that seemed to be speaking to us from its empty windows.  Behind the house lay an open grassy meadow filled with fruit trees.  Walking along what must have been a stone fence or pathway, we came upon a barn with an old tractor and plow, as if waiting in silence for someone to return.  
The Barn
Stepping out of the dark barn into the sunlight, we saw two sheep running off into the forest, perhaps descendants of a once tame flock.  At the edge of what looked like an open field for sowing wheat, stood a sign that helped shed light on this mysterious and intriguing place.  The entire Island was purchased by the Foote Family in 1890 after a Crown Grant was issued to private owners around 1885.  
Views from the House in Home Bay, Jedediah Island
The Foote Family lived here for over 30 years, they cleared a pasture, established an orchard, and planted gardens.  The next owners were Mr. and Mrs. Henry Hughes, he was from Ireland and purchased the property in 1920.  After marrying an English nurse, he and his wife lived on the property for 29 years.  
The Old Orchard
The last owners of the property were Alan and Mary Palmer who bought the property as a vacation getaway in 1949.  Beginning in 1972, they moved to the Island to become full-time residents, it’s not surprising that they fell in love with this amazing Island paradise.  In addition to the brief history regarding who had once live here, also posted was a trail map showing how we could hike across the island from our anchorage in Deep Bay.  
One of Several Small Bays on Jedediah Island
We were looking forward to tomorrow’s hike but now it was time to continue with the dinghy around the Island before night closed in on us.  After breakfast the following morning, we paddled the kayaks ashore and placed them above the high tide line.  Signage with a trail map is posted just upland from Deep Bay; but since we had printed a copy of the map from my photo, we didn’t need to rely on memory.  As it turned out, the trail was wide, easy to follow, and well maintained.  Even though the Island is 243 hectares (600.5 acres), the walk was only a short one mile to reach the homestead.  
A Feral Goat Standing Watch
Since the Island has never been subjected to commercial logging, old-growth Douglas fir and Cedar are impressive to behold in addition to the beautiful Arbutus perched along the rocky outcroppings.  Standing above us on a rocky knoll were several feral goats; one goat stopped to stare down at us as if keeping watch over his harem.  
Old Wheat Field at Homestead, Jedediah Island
Reaching the end of the forest, we were now in the open field once plowed for hay on the back side of the homestead.  As we approached the barn, a flock of sheep had come to graze, looking for their lost family among the gnarled orchard trees of apples, cherries, and plum.  The Island’s mild, dry, semi-Mediterranean climate no-doubt was good for farming.  
The Old Tractor Sits Silent
Next to a collapsed out-building Leonard found what appeared to be an olive tree, yes he reached out and “extended an olive branch.”  Under cover of a small shed we found an old trunk; had it been left behind by the first owners from the late 1880’s?

  
The Old Trunk



We walked around the homestead absorbing the peace and tranquility, passing a fence post here and there.  The tide had gone out and two Raccoons came to harvest clams and oysters on the tidal flats while a Red-crested Woodpecker perched in an old apple tree.  A rope swing hangs motionless below the house; did children once live here?  Where are they now and do the children or grandchildren ever come back to visit this place?  Such thoughts, such yearnings, such silence.  
Plaque Honoring Al and Mary Palmer
Two plaques are found at the homestead, one in honor of Alan and Mary Palmer who didn’t want the Island to be developed when they were gone and wished to conserve the Island for future generations to enjoy.  The Palmers sold this enchanting Island for less than it was worth to the Provincial Government in December 1994 to be used as a Marine Park.  Several organizations and individuals contributed money towards the purchase of the property; the Government contributed 2.6 million of the 4.2 million dollar purchase leaving the balance of the cost up to individuals of British Columbia.  The other plaque on the property is in honor of Dan Culver, whose estate contributed 1.1 million for the Island’s preservation.  Dan died in 1993 at the age of 41 while descending K2, the world’s second highest mountain.  He had reached the summit of both Mt. Everest and K2 and designated in his Will that a portion of his estate be set aside for an ecologically valuable coastal property.  He was a sailor and loved the sea as well as the mountains.  Dan, like so many others, have found inspiration in the most beautiful of places.  
The Hayloft
We found it hard to leave this magical Island as we walked back through the forest taking in the fresh smell of the woods and ocean seaside.  A stiff wind had come up rustling the trees suggesting it might be rough crossing the Strait of Georgia but I didn’t care, I had experienced paradise.

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