We left a bottle of wine for Tom as a
thank-you for his time while touring us through the cannery at Goose Bay
Fishing Lodge and departed Goose Bay heading west through a group of pretty
islands and islets. Heading towards sea,
we rounded the small peninsula of Kelp Head through the rocks & reefs of
Radar Passage, then turned eastward into Smith Sound. Cruising through more islets along the
northern shore of Smith Sound, we were about to enter Millbrook Cove anchorage when
we saw a sailboat heading in the same direction. We slowed to let them go first but then
noticed they had come to a complete stop and motioned us to go ahead waving
with their arms and giving a shrug of the shoulders.
Perhaps they wanted to follow us or perhaps
they wanted an anchorage of their own.
Indeed, Millbrook Cove has a very challenging entrance, multiple
right-angle turns with rocks and reefs on both sides lurking under the water’s
surface, the visible islets can make it disorienting. We very slowly approached the entrance using
one engine, carefully maneuvering around the rocks; once inside the cove, it is
well protected from the outside winds and is a good starting point to round
Cape Caution when conditions allow. We
never did see the sailboat come into the cove, perhaps they chickened-out or
preferred to go elsewhere.
We left the
next morning at 8am; it was a non-event rounding Cape Caution with only 2-3 foot
chop combined with gentle ocean swell – a good weather window to make the crossing. We saw the B.C. Ferry Northern Expedition heading
north which we had seen numerous times during this year’s boating season. Leonard joked that we always see him heading
north, “it must be because the world is round.”
Next came the crossing of Queen Charlotte Strait, it too was un-eventful
with calm seas.
Since we had nice sea
conditions, we decided to motor through the “Walker Group” of Islands located
about mid-way across the Strait, a pretty set of low-lying islands covered with
trees. On our way north earlier in the
season, we had heard over the radio that a sailboat was missing at this
location but were eventually found unharmed.
We arrived at Port McNeill on the northern end of Vancouver Island at
3:30pm, time to take on additional fuel and water.
As we were putting things away, we notice that
Java kept licking her right front paw, upon closer inspection we discovered a
small cut above her paw on the outside of her leg, perhaps she cut herself on
something at the beach – out came the first-aid kit. After shaving off some fur, we washed her leg
with disinfectant, put on some antibiotic ointment, and bandaged her leg; she
looked like a peg-leg pirate minus the patch over one eye. The following day we changed the dressing and
could see that the wound was already starting to heal, Java’s first battle scar
of many journeys at sea.
While she
rested up, we went for a walk along the waterfront park and noticed a beautiful
“monkey tree” also referred to as the “Chilean Pine.”
After some research, we learned that this
species of tree was put on the endangered list in 2013 due to the dwindling
population. The Chilean Pine can grow to
70 feet tall and 30 feet wide with open, spiraling branches. This straight standing tree with a pyramidal
shape likes temperate climates and lots of rain as long as there is good drainage. The tree originated in Chile and the Andes of
South America; its scientific name is Araucaria araucana. Interestingly,
the seeds of
the tree are edible and are extensively harvested in Chile – the trees only
produce seeds when 30-40 years old. In
addition to the pretty flowers and trees, a couple of restaurants line the
waterfront park, an opportunity to eat out and avoid washing dishes. We stopped at Gus’ Pub for some good Canadian
grub and draft beer with views of the park and marina, a nice way to end our
stay at Port McNeill. Java was happy to
see us back at the boat and hadn't slowed down in the least; still running around despite her
bandaged leg, nothing broken but her pride.
Beautiful Sunset at Millbrook Cove |
Approaching Cape Caution |
The Walker Group of Islands |
Port McNeill Park and Marina |
Peg-Leg Java |
Chilean Pine (monkey tree) |
The Branches look like monkey tails |
Fruit/Seeds of the Chilean Pine |
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