Saturday, September 10, 2016

Powell River - More than Expected!



Middle Basin, Westview Harbour at Powell River
 
We departed Okeover Inlet on September 9th retracing our steps back through Malaspina Inlet then rounded Sarah Point and headed southeast along Malaspina Strait formed by several islands in the Strait of Georgia.  Rather than stopping at Lund, we decided to continue further south and stop at the Town of Powell River.  Having passed by this city in previous years, we decided it was time to take a look.  The Harbour at Powell River can be a little confusing for visiting boaters.  Called Westview Harbour, moorage is divided into three sections:  the South Harbour, the middle harbor referred to as Westview, and the North Harbour.  The North Harbour is for permanent moorage with locked gates, while Westview (docks 1-6) and the South Harbour (docks 7-11) are used for fishing boats and transient boats.  If directed to the South Harbour, you will want to finder well.  A Harbourmaster's Office and showers are located at both the South and Westview Harbours. 
Views of Georgia Strait from Powell River
We had always assumed that it would be difficult to find space at Powell River but the Harbormaster was very helpful in directing us to available space at Westview and he waited at our assigned slip to help with lines.  We also assumed that the city would not be very pleasant or interesting being that it is a Mill Town, boy were we wrong!  The city of over 20,000 residents is actually made up of three different areas:  Westview located above the harbour; Cranberry Lake to the north; and Townsite to the northwest.  We were pleasantly surprised to discover a variety of excellent restaurants, gift shops, coffee shops, and organic food stores.  
Willingdon Beach, start of Willingdon Beach Trail
We enjoyed several meals out, including Thai, Greek, and India cuisine.  Most of the restaurants are along the main street which is within easy walking distance from the harbour and the expansive views from town overlooking the Strait of Georgia are breath-taking.  For the energetic, visitors can hike the steep streets up the hill to Safeway and other big box stores.  Backed by several large lakes, Powell River offers all sorts of recreational activities including a kayak/canoe route with developed portages, camping, hiking, and fishing.  We also learned that Powell River is the starting point for the 180 km (108 miles) Sunshine Coast Trail, the longest hut-to-hut hiking experience in Canada.  There are 13 shelters along the trail with incredible views of the lakes, ocean, and mountain peaks - currently no reservations or payment required!  Powell River seems to have it all for both the young and the old.  We found Powell River’s Westview to be very friendly, pleasant, and attractive.  In fact a neighboring local boater befriended us and three ladies joined us for coffee extending a friendly chat.  
Beautiful Willingdon Park Trail
An interesting find at Powell River was yet to come; we rode our bicycles along the Willingdon Beach Trail, which passes by a lovely sandy beach and follows the shoreline through the forest to “Townsite,” the location of the original settlement of Powell River.  Townsite sits above the Mill and reminded us of Ocean Falls except that people still live in these beautiful historic homes, and the buildings that once made up the company town are still being used by businesses today.  
Nice Views along the Trail
The Townsite was designated a National Historic District in 1995 and is quite unique.  Many of the buildings have been preserved while others are in the process of being refurbished – 400 original buildings contained within the original borders of the town plan at intact.  The pulp and paper mill was built on the waterfront between 1910 and 1912.  Water from Powell Lake was used to generate power for the mill which became known as the Powell River Paper Company.  By 1930, the Mill employed more than 2,000 workers.  
A Portion of the War Ships Breakwater 
The Catalyst Paper Mill is the current operator and the employees of today help support the Townsite community.  After WWII, dismantled warships and cargo ships were used as a floating breakwater in front of the Mill, now considered the longest floating breakwater found to-date.  
The 1913 Patricia Theatre
We stopped by many of the historic buildings in Townsite, including the Patricia Theatre which opened in 1913 and still serves as a theatre to view films.  
1927 Dwight Hall
The Dwight Hall, built in 1927, served as a community hall for performances and dances and included a public library.  Special events are still held today in Dwight Hall.  
1939 Provincial Building (now the Old Courthouse Inn)
The former provincial building built in 1939 currently serves as the “Old Courthouse Inn.”  This building originally housed the provincial court, jail, police headquarters and other government offices for Powell River.  Other buildings we visited included apartment buildings that are being refurbished and old churches that now stand silent still in need of repair.  
1939 Federal Building (now Townsite Brewing)
The name “Townsite Brewing” caught our eye and we stopped for some in-house brews before heading back to Westview.  The brewery is in a brick building that previously served as the Federal Building that opened in 1939 housing the Post Office, Customs & Excise, and the Canadian Telegraph Operations.  
The Manager's House
Continuing up the hill, we rode our bikes along a tree-lined lane fronted by the exclusive homes of the day such as the Director’s Home and the Manager’s Home among others – a beautiful setting with lovely views despite the Mill below.  
Exclusive Townsite Homes
We found Townsite to be a fascinating place and well worth the visit, especially for those who appreciate unique, historic sites.  Dark clouds were beginning to roll in, time to start back along the forested trail which in itself is not to be missed.  
Flanged Wheeled Log Cart
The trail is flat and easy to walk or bike and bypasses the busy highway.  Large beautiful cedar trees line the pathway with surprises around every bend – old logging equipment placed among the trees serve as a type of natural museum, interpretive signage provides information about the type of machinery used and the various logging techniques – Powell River first began as a logging camp in the 1880’s and became a regular stop for the Union Steamship Company boats.  There are numerous pieces of interesting equipment along the Willingdon Beach Trail including a cart with large steel flanged wheels to carry the yellow cedar logs.  
The Donkey
An incline was created to lower the loaded cart down the hill, instead of using steel railway tracks, wooden poles were used and the flanged wheels rode along the poles.  The cart was attached to a steam winch called a donkey.  On Chippewa Bay on Powell Lake, the “cut line” for the incline is still visible.  The donkey was used to both load logs as well as to pull the donkey sled into a central landing; a donkey was also used to lower the flanged wheeled cart.  
A Boomboat
At the lake or along the seashore, a Boomboat sorted the logs into a raft that was later towed by a tug to the sawmills.  The Boomboat seen along the Willingdon Beach Trail was donated by the Weyerhaeuser Co. 
We enjoyed our ride back to the boat along this beautiful waterfront trail and marveled at what we had discovered in Powell River, a nice community unfortunately missed by many pleasure boaters.

Thursday, September 8, 2016

A Dining Destination



Morning Light at Prideaux Haven, Desolation Sound Marine Park
We spent our second night in Prideux Haven visiting Denis and Mary on Teka III, we had spotted their boat when we first came into the bay and were happy to see that our paths had crossed again.  I made a batch of cookies and we got together to play a fun card game called “Spot It” and a domino game called “Chicken Tracks.”  Before heading back to our boat, we agreed to meet for dinner the following evening at the “Laughing Oyster,” a popular restaurant serving five-star rated dinners located in Okeover Inlet southwest of Prideaux Haven.  The morning light revealed the mountain range rising above Prideaux Haven as we exited the bay and made our way southwest through other islands within the Marine Park lying along Homfray Channel.  
Lovely Grace Harbour part of Desolation Sound Marine Park
After rounding Gifford Peninsula, we turned southeast down Malaspina Inlet; still within the confines of the Marine Park, we motored into Grace Harbour to see this lovely anchorage.  Several boats were at anchor which we recognized from previous encounters.  We circled around the bay and headed out continuing down Malaspina Inlet which becomes Okeover Inlet just outside the Marine Park.  
Okeover Harbour Authority Docks
As we pulled into the Okeover Harbour Authority docks, we could see that Teka III had already arrived and they came out to help us with our lines.  The Laughing Oyster Restaurant is located on a hill right above the docks, making this stop a convenient stayover with access to an excellent dinner out.  The inner docks are for working boats, while the L-shaped outer dock serves as transient moorage for visiting boats offering 440 feet on each side for side-tie.  
Okeover Harbour Authority Docks
Although there is no power or water service for transient stays, the L-shaped dock is wide and in good condition.  Moorage is on a first-come, first-serve basis but we had no problem finding space at our arrival time of 1pm.  
Containers for Oyster Seeds (one of many stacks in the yard)
Before dinner, Denis joined us for a hike along the road which kept a steep angle upward, we passed two campgrounds and an oyster yard which a local told us had been purchased by a Chinese family – stacks and stacks of black, half-dome plastic containers used to hold the oyster seeds were everywhere in this maintenance yard.  We kept hiking the road thinking the top of the mountain was just around the next corner but only another curve in the road and another hill was painted in front of us, time to turn around.  
Loading Oysters at Okeover Pier
After gathering some information about the marina for the Waggoner Cruising Guide, we readied ourselves for dinner.  As we passed the main pier, we saw a truck loaded with oysters and more nets of oysters being hoisted from a boat below.  
View from the Laughing Oyster Restaurant
We continued around the corner and through the pretty orchard of the Laughing Oyster Restaurant overlooking the docks with beautiful views of Okeover Inlet.  
Tasty Dishes at the Laughing Oyster Restaurant
Accessible by both car and boat, r
eservations are a must at this popular restaurant serving excellent, creative seafood dishes along with other choices like lamb and steak; Professional Chef David Bowes keeps his clientele happy with tasty, colorful dishes leaving you wanting to come back again! 
Great Meals at the Laughing Oyster Restaurant

Tuesday, September 6, 2016

Desolation Sound Marine Park




Squirrel Cove Public Wharf
A pleasant dinghy ride from our anchorage in Squirrel Cove brought us to the Squirrel Cove Trading Co. and Squirrel Cove Public Wharf.  The Trading Co. is a fun old-fashioned general store serving coffee and pastries, stocked with groceries on the main level and household items and hardware available downstairs.   
General Store and Gift Shop, Squirrel Cove
A gift shop selling quality handmade crafts and art from the Island is located next to the General Store; the General Store's dock in front makes this a fun, convenient stop but should be accessed only at higher tides. 
Departing Squirrel Cove Anchorage
Another option is to bring your main vessel to the Public Wharf and spend the night rather than anchoring out.  While the scenery is beautiful, the floats at the Wharf are in need of repair due to some sagging and decay.  After our purchase of pastries and fresh fruit from the store, we headed back to our anchorage and prepared to leave for the short 2-hour trip to Desolation Sound Marine Park.  
Entering Desolation Sound Marine Park at Prideaux Haven
There are three major anchorages in this beautiful Marine Park:  Grace Harbour, Tenedos Bay, and Prideaux Haven which includes Melanie Cove and Laura Cove.  Dotted with small islands and little coves, the park is an excellent location for exploring by kayak or dinghy and provides access to the small island peninsulas for walk-abouts.  During the summer months the water is relatively warm so the park has become a popular swimming hole – we noticed a rope swing hanging from a tree over the water as we motored into Prideaux Haven.  
Lovely Madrone Trees in the Park
We also noticed that there were numerous boats anchored and stern-tied in the bay(s) even at this late date in the season – we counted nearly 25 boats in the Prideaux area; in the summers, the Marine Park will fill with nearly 100 boats.  
Boats Stern-tied in Melanie Cove at Prideaux Haven
Clearly the park is a popular destination with lovely coves backed by a forested mountain range rising 4,500 feet.  Due to its popularity, seven new stern-tie bolts have been installed this year along the rocky shore on the north side of Melanie Cove.  
Boats Stern-tied in Melanie Cove at Prideaux Haven
These new stern-ties are in addition to the thirteen stern-ties along the south side of Eveleigh Island and the older three stern-ties along the southeast side of Scobell Island – a total of 23 stern-tie installations for the Prideaux Haven area.  
Stern-tie Bolt and Chain
Boats of course can also create their own stern-tie by wrapping a line around a tree on shore.  
A Boat's Stern-line through the Shore Chain Installation
Bolt System for Shore Stern-tie
Stern-ties allow boats to remain perpendicular to the shore with use of a bow anchor and stern-tie to the shore creating room for more boats to fill the bay(s).  
Map of Prideaux Haven Shore-tie Locations
Long before Europeans came to Desolation Sound, this area was home to the First Nations of the Sliammon, Hamalco, and Klahoose.  
Medrones in Prideaux Haven
The Native village at Squirrel Cove is of the Klahoose tribe who had used the cove for summer harvesting as well as the surrounding areas of Desolation Sound; their winter home had been at the head of Toba Inlet, where a small band still remains today with the village name of Klahoose.  The values of the Klahoose are based on the holistic practice in all things – health, community, and environment.

Monday, September 5, 2016

Broughton’s to Desolation Sound



A Boat heading for Mayne Channel
We motored across Johnston Strait once again, this time exiting at Mayne Passage, arriving at Blind Channel Resort on West Thurlow Island.  This lovely resort has nice docks, hiking trails, new cabins, a small groc/gift shop, and an excellent restaurant – always a favorite stop in the Broughton Island Group for boaters.  Timing one’s arrival at Blind Channel Resort can be a smart move, as the current can be swift at times through the channel and around the docks.  
Blind Channel Resort on W Thurlow Island 
We found that space was filling up quickly when we arrived early evening.  After being directed to one of the last spaces available and securing our lines, we walked to the restaurant to enjoy dinner and relax over a glass of wine.  The following morning we were bound for Squirrel Cove in Desolation Sound, a 5-6 hour journey.  
Blind Channel Resort
We exited Mayne Passage (Blind Channel) heading northward, then turned eastward into Cordero Channel passing Cordero Lodge and Shoal Bay which we have enjoyed visiting in previous years.  Not wanting to arrive too early at Dent Rapids, we motored past Oleo’s in Denham Bay, once the site of a floating restaurant that is now out of business – most of the buildings have been removed while others have partially collapsed.  
Dining Room at Blind Channel Resort
As we turned south again, our timing was perfect for approaching Dent Rapids at slack water; the water was so calm we commented out-loud, “what rapids?”  Of course there would be a different selection of words if we had gone through at the wrong time!  Yuculta Rapids were next with the same un-noticed transition. 

We were now in “Calm Channel” entering Big Bay.  Big Bay is a local for a concentration of Big Money with high-end sport-fishing lodges and resorts, including a golf course.  
Many Impressive Sport Lodges in Big Bay
The entire Bay is beginning to look like a Whistler Ski Resort with expansive multi-level resort lodges, all very impressive.  We continued southeast down Calm Channel which becomes Lewis Channel putting us in the Desolation Sound region.  Around 5pm we pulled into Squirrel Cove on the east side of Cortes Island and anchored for the night; our anticipated visit by dinghy to the Squirrel Cove Trading Co. would have to wait for the following day. 

Sunday, September 4, 2016

Kelsey Bay



Kelsey Bay Marina
Continuing east on Johnston Strait from Port Harvey, we crossed to the south side of the channel or strait and made a stop at Kelsey Bay.  Kelsey Bay is named in honor of William and Imogene Kelsey, who in 1906 travelled by boat from Washington State bound for Alaska.  They ended up stopping along Johnston Strait and began hand logging.  
Kelsey Bay Marina
They later moved across the Strait to Kelsey Bay in 1922 with their three daughters.  A small marina remains at Kelsey Bay today consisting of mainly fishing boats along with an RV Park, a cute café, and a little gift shop that doubles as a tourist information office.  
Got d' Fever at Kelsey Bay Marina
We found the docks to be clean and well maintained; payment for overnight stays are self-serve at the head of the ramp with an honor system drop box.  Guests can also tie-up at the dock owned by the Straits View Café while enjoying breakfast, lunch, or dinner.  
Straits View Café
Boaters can stay overnight at the café dock for a fee and may call ahead to reserve space at the 100 foot dock.  We found Kelsey Bay to be a cute and interesting stop.  
Old Ships used as a Breakwater
The breakwater is made from the hulls of old ships, including the Union Steamship Cardena and three WWII frigates.  Before roads existed in the area, Union Steamship Boats (1911-1940’s) stopped to pick up and deliver passengers, mail, freight, and supplies for the communities along Johnston Strait including Kelsey Bay.  
Kelsey Bay Marina Breakwater
In the 1950’s and 60’s the Ferry, Island Princess provided new passenger service for the area.  The café at Kelsey Bay has a nice collection of historic photos on the restaurant walls which we enjoyed over a cup of coffee and homemade pie. 
Archival Photos on Café walls


Saturday, September 3, 2016

Home Stretch




Johnston Strait
 
Clear Water for watching Dall's Porpoise
Traveling east along Johnston Strait from Port McNeill felt like heading down the home stretch, the seas were calm and the sun shone on the large forested mountains along this east-west water highway.  Dall's Porpoise came to play alongside Got d’ Fever in the clear, blue water crisscrossing in front of us for the longest time. 
Cruise Ship traveling Johnston Strait
A couple of cruise ships were making their way eastward and numerous boats that had come into Port Harvey were on their way home as well, evidence that the season is winding down.  
Dall's Porpoise Having Fun
We entered Port Harvey along the north shore of Johnston Strait for our night’s anchorage; and as we entered the bay, we spotted a pictograph on a rock face; pictographs are common throughout the Broughton Island Group along the north side of Johnston Strait.   
Pictograph in Port Harvey
We had looked for this pictograph at Port Harvey a couple of years ago but were unable to locate it; the lighting was perfect this time as we entered the harbour and we quickly identified the markings.  Port Harvey (not to be confused with Port Hardy) is a good place to anchor if you need to get out of the winds of Johnston Strait or you can tie-up at the well-maintained guest docks owned by George and Gail.  
Guest Docks at Port Harvey
Their grocery store/café unfortunately sank last year but a new building is taking shape, their new store has been framed-in but still awaits roofing and siding.  
Party Tent and Store Under Construction, Port Harvey
We also noted that a very nice party tent had been erected on the docks for summer gatherings; boaters have high hopes that the store/café will be up and running for the 2017 season.