Edge of the World





Heading West out to Sea

When I look at the horizon with no land in sight, I always think of the oil paintings from the 1700’s depicting sailing ships falling off the edge of the world.  Indeed, we would not see land until reaching Haida Gwaii located 100 miles from Caamano  Sound due west from the coast of British Columbia.  

Mountains on Campania Island

As we left the cloudy skies in Surf Inlet, we were met with sun and blue sky in Caamano Sound and headed due west around 5pm.  

Impressive Mountains on Campania Island

The sun shone on the mountains of Campania Island as we looked back at terra-firma passing over the Aranzazu Banks.  The evening was pleasant with a slight breeze and a 1 foot gentle ocean swell, but the crossing would be a long 16 hours of motoring.  

Heading West, Preparing for Nightfall

We prepared for nightfall laying out portable flashlights, life jackets, and diming lights on the instrument panel.  When darkness finally arrived around 10:30pm, we turned on the spotlight attached to the bow of the boat to watch for debris.  Peering through the darkness at a greenish haze just in front of the bow takes some getting used to.  You can’t really see the water, but objects in the water such as birds, kelp, and wood debris, reflect back the light.  Fortunately, we didn’t find any logs but did see a few chunks of wood.  The experience can also be a lonely feeling with no other boats in sight, we did however see a cruise ship on radar heading south, probably from Ketchikan.  

Skidegate Inlet and Double Mountain

The hours wore on and we took shifts at the helm, keeping a watch on the radar, navigation tracking system, and for any foreign objects in the water.  It can make one weary and even Java found the whole ordeal tiresome.  At last we spied the land of the Haida around 6am as we passed over the shallows of Laskeek Bank which extends out along the eastern shore.  

Double Mountain, Haida Gwaii

As we motored through the marked channel into Skidegate Inlet the mountains came into view.  Some of these mountains were shrouded in clouds while Double Mountain was bathed in sunlight adding to the wonder and mystic of Haida Gwaii.  

Sandspit Harbour Marina

There are two marinas to choose from and a couple of anchorages in Skidegate Inlet, we chose not to anchor due to the predicted winds and instead found moorage at Sandspit Harbour marina at 9am.  We were ready for a long nap after motoring continuously for 26 hours from Klemtu to Haida Gwaii, 187 nautical miles.