Orientation Day




Map of Haida Gwaii; Gwaii Haanas in green

Travelers visiting the National Marine Conservation Area Reserve, the southern portion of Haida Gwaii known as Gwaii Haanas, must obtain a permit and attend an orientation session before entering the area (May-Sept).  Having previously made reservations and paid our fee, it was time to attend the orientation and receive our permit.  Orientations are presented at The Haida Heritage Centre in the town of Skidegate on Graham Island. 

Catching the Ferry from Moresby Is. to Graham Is. 

Since we were staying at the marina on Moresby Island, we needed to take the small ferry that runs between the two main islands of Haida Gwaii.  We found the ferry schedule printed in the Gwaii Haanas Trip Planner publication, rented a car at our location in Sandspit, and headed out for the ferry crossing in the morning to attend the 9am orientation.  Riding the ferry was an adventure in itself.  Due to the extreme tide levels, the ferry landing looks like a boat launch with a steep drive.  As the ferry comes into shore, a metal ramp on the ferry is dropped down to meet the shoreline.  The ferry carries about a dozen cars and the crossing takes 20 minutes.  

The Haida Heritage Centre

After reaching Skidegate Landing, it was a short drive to The Haida Heritage Centre, a series of buildings designed to replicate the Haida village site of “Sea-Lion Town” that once stood here.  The 50,000 square foot Center includes classroom space, a performance house, a carving shed, small café, and the Haida Gwaii Museum.  

Carving Shed at The Haida Heritage Centre

The orientation was presented by representatives from Parks Canada and members of the Haida Nation Council, who cooperatively manage the wilderness reserve of Gwaii Haanas.  The rugged wilderness of Gwaii Haanas (“Islands of Beauty”) is peppered with islands and islets, alpine and sub-alpine tundra, lakes and wetlands, and temperate rainforests that sweep from sea level up the slopes of the San Christoval Mountains.  

Canoe at The Haida Heritage Centre

This archipelago isolated from mainland B.C. has many unique plants and animals.  The Haida Gwaii Black Bear for example developed a larger body, jaws, and teeth by thriving on the rich diet of salmon and hard-shelled intertidal sea life.  Twenty species of whales and dolphins have been identified here along with 750,000 bird species.  The Haida have lived on the islands for thousands of years and scientists have discovered 600 sites with evidence of human habitation such as middens, fish weirs, and burial caves.  Significant evidence is found at five different village sites in Gwaii Haanas:  Skedans (K’uuna Llnagaay) on Louise Island; Tanu (T’aanuu Llnagaay) on Tanu Island; Windy Bay (Hlk’yah Llnagaay) on Lyell Island; on Hotspring Island (Gandll K’in Gwaay-yaay); and on Anthony Island (SGang Gwaay).  Two to four Watchmen live at each site and serve as hosts providing information about the site(s) and can also assist in cases of emergencies. Boaters must contact the Watchmen on VHF Radio Channel 06 upon arrival.  Only 12 people at a time are allowed on shore at the village site(s) so boaters may need to wait their turn; we don’t anticipate any waits however since it is still early in the season.  Weather and safety were also covered in the orientation with a reminder that the tidal range can be up to 24 feet!  Small craft warnings are always in effect for area waters and winds can funnel over the islands and down inlets.  Furthermore, there is no internet or cell phone coverage in Gwaii Haanas.  We continue to be impressed with the importance and convenience of our InReach Delorme satellite based device, which enables us to receive weather reports along with the ability to send and receive text messages. 

At Queen Charlotte City

After orientation we toured the modern day towns/villages of Haida Gwaii located on northern Graham Island:  Queen Charlotte, Skidegate, Port Clements, and Masset.  Queen Charlotte was the first registered town on the islands and was founded in 1891 with a Crown grant of 703 acres of waterfront property.  Skidegate located just a few miles to the east of Queen Charlotte is home to world-famous carvers and artists along with the Haida Heritage Center and Museum.  

Museum at Port Clements

Port Clements is a logging town with a nice museum displaying logging machines from a bygone era and captures history of the pioneer life. 

Maritime Museum at Masset



Massat Harbour

Masset located near the northern end of the island is a fishing community from the late 1800’s and has a cute maritime museum.  The area called Old Masset (Haida) is home to Native artists and carvers who mostly work out of their houses.  The community has recently revived the tradition of raising new totem poles to honor deceased loved ones.  On our drive back and throughout the day, we noticed how quickly the weather can change, everything from clouds, wind, and rain, to areas of sun and warmth.  Apparently it is not uncommon to see bear crossing the road during the evening hours which is what we experienced driving back to Sandspit; unfortunately, the camera had already been put away.