Haida Gwaii: The West Side

Cape Decision, Kuiu Island

We departed Louise Cove on Kuiu Island and continued south down Sumner Strait which was glassy smooth with 1 foot swells. At the ocean entrance to Sumner Strait, we turned west towards Cape Decision on the southwest tip of Kuiu Island. When we reached Cape Decision the seas were still calm with a gentle 2 foot swell so we made the “decision” to continue west rather than turn north up Chatham Strait along the east side of Baranof Island. We would instead cross over Chatham Strait and then turn north along the outside or west side of Baranof Island. As Douglass states in his boater’s guidebook, “Exploring Southeast Alaska,” very few pleasure craft venture along Baranof Island’s west coast because of its remoteness and direct exposure to the Gulf of Alaska and should be attempted only in fair weather. As we crossed Chatham Strait, we encountered 3 foot swells with occasional 4 footers but at intervals that were still comfortable.

Humpback Whale, Cape Ommaney

The next challenge would be to round Cape Ommaney on the southern tip of Baranof Island before turning north into the waters of the Gulf of Alaska. As we approached Cape Ommaney, the swell began to build to 6 feet but still at acceptable intervals due to the fact that there was no wind. We found the scenery to be magnificent along the west side with towering mountains as if trying to hold back the sea.

Humpback Whale, Cape Ommaney

Humpback whales were spotted off the Cape, adding to the intrigue and beauty of this incredible place. We rounded Cape Ommaney about 1pm and noticed that we were going against a 1 knot current which lasted for about an hour.

Cape Ommaney

We surmised that the large volume of water flowing in and out of Chatham Strait must be wrapping around the Cape and causing some stirred seas. Continuing northwest along Baranof Island the sea state returned to a more characteristic ocean pattern and swell.

Cape Ommaney

The mountains along Baranof’s west side are striking, some still dusted with snow.

Mountains along Baranof Island

Several enormous waterfalls could be seen tumbling down the mountain faces – what appeared to the naked eye as snow patches or slides were clearly seen as huge waterfalls through the binoculars.