Something Old, Something New



Creek Street, Ketchikan

 

Ketchikan is always a fun place to visit and a convenient town for picking up supplies.  There are many things to see and do, most of which we had done on previous trips, including visiting the lovely Totem Bight Historic Park, the Saxman Totem Park, the excellent Totem Heritage Center with original totems from Haida Gwaii, and riding the Funicular tram to Cape Fox Lodge for a view of the city.  Of course there are the souvenir shops and restaurants in downtown, best visited when the cruise ships have departed, and the ever popular Creek Street district of ill repute during the early 1900’s.  

New York Hotel & Café, Stedman-Thomas District Ketchikan

Next door to Creek Street is the Stedman-Thomas historic district where we had lunch in the New York Hotel & Café, not normally discovered by tourists from the cruise ships.  The café opened in 1903 by Japanese-American immigrants George and Yayoko Shimizu, originally located in downtown Front Street.  At that time Ketchikan was racially divided between whites who lived north of Ketchikan Creek and Japanese, Chinese, and other immigrants who lived south of the Creek, called “Indian Town.”  The Shimizu’s were forced to move to Indian Town where they opened the New York Hotel & Café in 1925 with 18 tiny rooms and one shared bath.  

Historic 1925 Café begun by the Shimizu Family

During WWII they were forced to leave again, this time to an internment camp but caring neighbors looked after their property and business for them.  When the Shimizu family returned, the neighbors gave them their due profits.  The New York Hotel & Café was run by the Shimizu’s until 1981 – a total of 56 years over three generations.  We also visited the historic 1935 Union Machine Shop, begun by the Bray family to provide machinists and services to the local fishing fleet.  Harley Bray’s son, Jim, took over the business in 1962, and Jim’s son, Rod – a commercial fisherman and machinist – operates the business today.  

Historic Machinist Shop and Potlatch Bar

The building remains largely unchanged from the 1930’s overlooking the fishing fleet in Thomas Basin.  The Potlatch Bar, located next door to the machine shop, is housed in a historic building from the 1920’s.  The building was originally used as simple rooms to rent by the week or month to fishermen and perhaps the occasional prostitute.  A local madam by the name of Josephine Hill, had owned the bar for a brief period.  The building became a saloon in 1950, first named the Fishermen’s Club and then in 1953 renamed the Potlatch Bar.  The Bar was the preferred haunt of James Duncan who ran a gambling club upstairs in the 1960’s; and during the 1970’s, the Bar served as a venue for local bands.  Today the Bar is still a destination for the local fishing crews to quince their thirst.  

Beaches and Picnic Areas along Tongass Narrows

After visiting the historic districts, we decided to exercise our legs and visit an area we hadn’t seen in past years.  We headed south out of town on our bicycles to Herring Bay, the site of a wetlands boardwalk and Zip Line in the forest.  

Pretty Views along the Tongass Narrows

We followed the bike path along Tongass Narrows taking in the pretty views overlooking the channel.  After 10 miles of peddling up and down the pathways and roadways, we arrived at Herring Bay.  

Wetlands Boardwalk, Herring Bay

The wetlands boardwalk, although only a half-mile long, is attractive and the site offers outdoor totem carving demonstrations, a blacksmith shop, and of course the obligatory gift shop. 

The Zip Line seems to be the main attraction; but having been on the giant Zip Line in Hoonah Alaska, we declined the offer.  

New Tourist Stop, Herring Bay

We did enjoy seeing the area and the creative effort of entrepreneurs to draw in the tourist dollar.  Our goal of the day was to get some vigorous exercise, so after a snack and brief visit, we retraced the 10 miles back to Ketchikan; a dozen Gray Line buses must have passed us coming and going.  

Winter Snow remains in Ketchikan Mountains (Cape Fox Lodge above town)

By the time we reached our boat in Bar Harbor, our legs felt like rubber - mission accomplished.