Windy Bay (Hlk’yah GawGa)



Whale feeding near Windy Bay

After visiting Tanu earlier in the day, we headed to Windy Bay on Lyell Island.  As we approached Fuller Point, we saw a whale (Fin Whale or Minke Whale) gliding back and forth feeding through the kelp.  We stopped the boat and sat silent to watch this incredible show.  

Whale feeding near Windy Bay

A few minutes later we rounded Fuller Point and headed into Windy Bay.  In 1985, this bay was filled with small boats belonging to the Haida who had come to protest logging in the southern islands of Haida Gwaii.  The Haida took their stand on a logging road at nearby Sedgwick Bay.  The Elders were arrested by police, one policeman was a Native who unfortunately had to arrest those who had helped raise him.  Eventually these protests were successful and led to the protection and creation of the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site. 

Legacy Pole at Windy Bay

In August of 2013, visitors, volunteers, Haida and Parks Canada staff raised the “Legacy Pole” at Windy Bay, the first monumental pole raised in Gwaii Haanas in over 130 years.  The pole was carved from a 500 year old cedar and secured 6 feet underground.  In the Haida tradition, a dance was performed around the pole to bring the totem to life.  Our Watchman and tour guide whose grandparents were buried here, talked about the caves nearby where bones of Grizzly bears had been found, confirming that Grizzly bears once lived in the area.  

Hiking through Old Growth Forest (Jim and Guide)

Another guide led us along a trail through old-growth western hemlock, western red cedar, and Sitka spruce.  The trail runs along Windy Bay Creek where pink salmon run in the late summer and early fall.  Indeed, Windy Bay had been a seasonal village for the Haida who came here to fish and garden.  Wall boards from their winter homes were removed and laid across canoes for transport and then reused for siding at their summer home.  Gardens were tiered with rock walls for planting.  The Haida harvested a type of potato which looks similar to ginger root.  Berry bushes, crab apple trees, and the edible flower, “single delight,” are still found in the area along with orchids and Salal.    

The Haida harvested strips of Cedar for weaving

Today, an abundance of deer pose a problem eating down these plants and topping bushes.  Deer and Beaver were not indigenous to the area but were introduced in later years.  The Haida also harvested cedar bark for weaving baskets and other items.  Using hot rocks and water, the center of the tree was steamed open and sheets of cedar were pulled off, best done when the trees are running with sap.  

Jim demonstrates size of Giant Sitka Spruce

As we walked down the trail and rounded a corner, standing proud before us was a giant Sitka spruce, estimated to be more than 800-900 years old, it is the largest tree I have ever seen, absolutely massive in scale!  A nice place to turn around, we headed back with our guide and crossed the creek with the skiff using a pulley system.  

Our Watchman & Guide Waves Goodbye

The bay had started to fill with wind and current living up to its name of Windy Bay.  After getting the dinghy back onboard Got d’ Fever, we hoisted the anchor only to find a huge stone wedged in its cradle.  

Got d' Fever at anchor in Windy Bay

We motored slowly out to deeper water where Leonard leaned over the bow and hefted the bolder, dropping it into the sea with a backsplash of water in his face. 

Anchor pulled up a Huge Stone

We departed Windy Bay in 25 knot winds with 3 foot chop, wind against current but we were soon in protected waters behind the islands where we anchored for the night in a hidden hole on Murchison Island; Spirit Quest continued on to Hutton Inlet on Moresby Island, we would meet up again later at Rose Harbour.