Historic Village of Skedans

 

While staying at the marina in Skidegate we met Jim and Anita on their 42 foot Kadey Krogen named Spirit Quest.  They live in Port Townsend, Washington and were also planning to visit the historic villages of Gwaii Haanas.  We agreed it would be a good idea to travel as buddy boats for companionship and to assist each other if needed.  Got d’ Fever and Spirit Quest departed Saturday, June 4^th at 7:15am and headed through the channel from Skidegate, crossing the bar (Dog Fish Banks) at the narrowest point into deeper water before turning south.  Our first stop was at Skedans Bay on Louise Island.  Since the bay is open to ocean swell from the east, we decided to take turns going ashore – two people on shore, while two people stayed with the boats.  

Archival Photo, Native Village at Skedans



Skedans Bay

After calling the Watchmen on VHF Ch6, Jim dropped us off at shore while he went back to await our call via VHF radio for their turn to come in.  The Watchman greeted us and lead us down a path along the water’s edge expounding on Haida traditions and showing us the remnants of the village.  The village of Skedans, or K’uuna Llnagaay in Haida, had between 26 to 30 longhouses.  In the late 1800’s more than 50 pieces were recorded at K’uuna Llnagaay, including 22 frontal poles, 18 single mortuary poles, 3 double mortuary poles, 5 memorial poles, and 5 mortuary figures.  Of course the site was in much better condition during the 1800’s than it is today.  Weather and time has taken its toll and it is Haida tradition that things should return back to the earth from wince they came.  That being said, the poles at Skedans will one day disappear altogether.  

Longhouse Pit

We were shown the few carved memorial and mortuary poles that remain today and the depressions of two longhouses.  When constructing a longhouse, a large pit was dug to provide warmth to the home and the Haida believed they needed to expunge any evil spirits in the ground.  A pit that was dug deeper and completed faster, demonstrated wealth.  The inside of the longhouse was terraced and those of important rank slept above those of lower rank; commoners and slaves slept on the ground around the fire pit.  Frontal poles on the longhouse held the crest of the family.  The Haida had a very complex rank and class system with two main clans, the Eagles and Ravens.  

Mortuary Pole

Marriages took place between the clans in order to distribute wealth.  Some Haida members still carry on this tradition today.  The lineage is carried through the mother, whose crest is carved at the bottom of the pole as she is the foundation of the family.  The husband’s clan crest is next and so on.  Someone who might be visiting the village would be able to tell which home is the mother’s and which home is her brother’s etc. 

Archival Photo, Double Mortuary Pole

Mortuary poles were carved for the deceased; after 2-3 years decomposition of the body which had been placed in a special house, the body was then put in a sitting position inside a bentwood box at the top of a single pole or in a horizontal crossbar between two upright poles known as a double mortuary pole.  Memorial poles were only for those of high rank who had not returned home, lost at sea or otherwise.  

Memorial Pole with 13 Rings

Rings seen on the poles represent how many potlatches that person had given during his lifetime.  We counted 13 rings on one pole, and the Watchmen said there had been a pole with 16 rings, now in pieces on the ground; Skedans (K’uuna Llnagaay) had been a wealthy village.  

Mortuary Pole

As Natives acquired tools from Europeans, they could carve deeper into the wood which cast shadows around a fire; the totems appeared to dance and were said to come alive.  We headed back down the trail and felt a little closer to a people once forgotten.  It was 4:30pm by the time we were ready to depart, the fog had started to roll in as did a 2 knot current creating tiny whirlpools as we hoisted the dinghy back up on the boat.  Another hour or two and we would be at our night’s anchorage in Thurston Harbour on Talunkwan Island.  

Anchorage at Thurston Harbour

It took us two or three attempts to get the anchor set at Thurston Harbour, the bottom was a mixture of rock and mud; we finally settled in by 6:30pm for dinner; tomorrow would be another day of connecting with the past.