Resort Fishing in Rivers Inlet

After the fortuitist timing of events at Dawsons Landing, our timing for weather at Duncanby L

Rain and Fog coming into Duncanby Landing

anding was very wet and foggy.  After rounding the north end of Walbran Island, we headed south down Rivers Inlet in the rain and fog, being careful to avoid the numerous sport fishing boats from the various fishing lodges in the area:  the Good Hope Cannery Resort, The Duncanby Lodge, Black Gold Lodge, and Goose Bay Lodge among others.  

Duncanby Landing Fishing Lodge & Restaurant

Good Hope Resort and Duncanby Landing are both high-end, fly-in fishing lodges.  As we approached Duncanby Landing, the sky let loose with a down pour, my raingear looked like a miniature waterfall and a river of water ran down the ramp at the docks.  The good news was that we could dine out at the Duncanby Landing restaurant.  

Duncanby Landing Fishing Lodge

We dried off, changed clothes, and headed for the restaurant before it got busy with the arrival of the sport fishing folks.  

Dinner with a View, Duncanby Landing Restaurant

We shared a salad and delicious halibut dish served with roasted yellow beats, roasted seasonal potatoes, and sweet-spicy mango chunks served over the baked fish; the beer on tab from Whistler’s Brewery was also excellent.  Pleasure boaters seem to appreciate the fact that this sport-fishing resort welcomes cruisers to stop and enjoy the restaurant and attractive setting; we were glad to have arrived before the lodge shut down within the next five days for the season.  

Delicious Dinners at Duncanby Landing

The following morning we continued south into Goose Bay and stopped by Black Gold Lodge to inquire if they welcome pleasure boats, a resounding NO was the answer.  

The Old Cannery - Goose Bay Fishing Lodge

We continued further into the bay, arriving at the old cannery which houses the Goose Bay Fishing Lodge.  We were greeted by a couple standing on the dock who said they would be happy to give us a tour of the old cannery buildings but they were just leaving for Dawsons to get groceries, they would be back in a couple of hours; “no problem, we will come back later today” we replied.  

Goose Bay Cannery Building

We found good anchorage in the bay just across from the cannery and had lunch, baked some cookies, and enjoyed the afternoon while awaiting their return.  Around 2:40pm we motored over to the cannery dock and tied-up for a few hours.  

Cannery Buildings, Goose Bay

Tom the owner was happy to give us a tour of the facility, actually there are multiple owners of the property, buildings, and lodge assets including some boats.  The accommodations are rustic but improvements are being made to the buildings and cabins each year thanks to each owner spending an allotted amount of dedicated time.  The cannery was originally constructed in 1926 and was in operation from 1927 to 1957; at one time 350 people lived and worked here processing and canning salmon.  

Steam-driven Motors

Tom showed us through the main cannery building which included several steam driven motors that used belts to run other canning equipment of the time.  We also toured the wood shop, tool shop, and cabins once used by the workers of the cannery.  Goose Bay Lodge and cannery is not currently mentioned in our cruising guide so we asked about the policy for moorage.  

Our Cannery Tour

We learned that pleasure boaters can tie-up at the dock overnight for a nominal fee, all funds received go towards improving the cannery site.  A drop box for payment is located at the end of the ramp and is on the “honor system.” 

Cannery Housing (now guest cabins)

Instructions for visitors is also posted at the end of the ramp, moorage is on a first-come, first-serve basis.  In addition to the interesting cannery site, visitors are welcome to hike the 1-mile trail to the dam located above the cannery but should be “bear aware” and take the appropriate precautions.  

Got d' Fever at Goose Bay Fishing Lodge & Cannery

We thanked Tom for his time and departed Goose Bay around 4pm for the two-hour journey to Millbrook Cove in Smith Sound, a good position for the morning push around dreaded Cape Caution.

Timing is Everything



Dawsons Landing, Darby Channel

 

We departed Pruth Bay at 9:30am via Kwakshua Channel, the main channel for approaching and departing Pruth Bay on Calvert Island.  Exiting Kwakshua Channel, we turned south along Fitz Hugh Sound until we reached the entrance to Darby Channel and turned northeast, arriving at Dawsons Landing around 1pm.  

Got d' Fever at Dawsons Landing

Dawsons Landing has only two, year-round residents! – Rob and Nola who own the floats, grocery store, and cottages.  The resident number used to be three but their daughter is going off to college this year; Rob and Nola are hopeful that she will return for the short summer season to help run the store and welcome guests.  

Dawsons Landing

Boaters come to Dawsons to fish or to stay over when transiting the area but it’s the cute, well-stocked old-fashioned grocery store that seems to be the main attraction.  The store has a little bit of everything – hardware, fishing supplies, clothes, and groceries, and boaters appreciate the access to Wi-Fi; the store even serves as a post office and sells fishing licenses.  

Dawsons General Store

We picked up a few items from the store and just as we were carrying them to the boat, a rare and special aircraft was on approach to land at Dawsons – a Grumman Goose!  This twin-engine amphibious transport plane was first built in 1936 with modifications made in later years.  

The G-21 Grumman Goose

The G-21 Goose was/is powered by 450-hp Pratt & Whitney engines.  During WWII the Goose was used for transporting military personnel including the U.S. Coast Guard; nearly 350 “Gooses” were in operation.  The unique ability of the G-21 Goose to operate on land or water has served remote locations for over 70 years.  After the War, most of the G-21’s were used in the civilian market but by 1990 only a small number of G-21 aircraft remained due to a lack of spare parts and experienced mechanics for this type of aircraft. 

The Grumman Goose at Dawsons Landing

In 2007 Antilles Seaplanes announced it was going to produce a turbine-powered version called the McKinnon Goose.  Unfortunately in 2009 the Antilles Seaplanes manufacturing center was foreclosed; the Goose that would have been is now referred to as the Antilles G-21.  

Big Radial Engine(s)

What a special opportunity to see an original G-21 Grumman Goose at Dawsons Landing up-close and personal.  

Loading a package in the Grumman Goose

Before the Goose departed we had another unexpected surprise.  

Cockpit of the G-21 Grumman Goose

A black bear was seen swimming across the channel in the direction of Dawsons Landing, 

Passenger Door on the Grumman Goose

looking through the binoculars we could see his head and ears above the water, looking from side to side for any approaching danger; 

Pushing Away from the Dock

we were all glad he got across before the 

Leaving the Dock

Goose departed!

Take-off

Airborne!

 

Beaches of Calvert Island



Hakai Institue Dock in Pruth Bay on Calvert Island

 

Leaving Ocean Falls, we departed Cousins Inlet at 8:45am and motored south along Fisher Channel which becomes Fitz Hugh Sound.  The seas were choppy with three-foot waves and it was pouring rain.  After turning west into Hakai Passage, we were somewhat protected from the southeast winds blowing up Fisher Channel.  

Dingy Dock at Pruth Bay

Hakai Passage leads out to sea but a small passage called Meay Inlet took us south again, arriving at Pruth Bay on Calvert Island where we anchored for the night.  The clouds were broken the following morning, time to head to Java’s favorite beach.  

Hakai Institute Lodging

We took the dinghy ashore and tied to the dinghy dock provided by the Hakai Institute, a science research field station located at the end of Pruth Bay.  The Institute focuses on instruction and study of the ecosystem and the effects of human habitation.  

Trail to West Beach (walking sticks provided)

Visitors are welcome to come ashore and hike the half-mile trail out to beautiful “West Beach.”  Although hiking the beaches is at your own risk, the Hakai Institute asks that visitors sign-in on the clipboard at the head of the ramp.  The Institute has their own scientific research staff, equipment, and boats; staff work with a network of collaborators from universities, government agencies, and First Nations.  

Boardwalk Trail to West Beach

A second science research field station is located on Quadra Island at the northern end of the Strait of Georgia.  The Institute and field stations are funded by the Tula Foundation, a private foundation based in British Columbia.  

Salmon Berries along the Trail

After securing our dinghy and signing-in, we found the trailhead to the beach which is clearly marked with signage.  Next to the sign are several walking-sticks for hikers to borrow if so inclined.  The trail is mostly boardwalk covered with wire-mesh for better footing, but there are unfinished muddy sections so our recommendation is to wear boots.  

West Beach

The trail is thick with ferns, Sitka Spruce, Shore Pine, Salmon Berries, Salal, and other foliage.  The narrow trail ends at the shoreline with a wide vista of the sea and a beautiful crescent-shaped sandy breach, one of those beautiful sights that instills peace and wonderment.  We walked the length of the beach, running part of the time with Java who had a ball exploring the soft seashore.  

Beautiful West Beach on Calvert Island

After spending about an hour at the beach, it was time to head back to the boat for lunch and give Java her bath, having picked up sand in her paws and underbelly.  

Java Running on the Beach

After lunch and cleanup, Java settled in for her nap and we returned to shore to hike some of the additional beaches on the west side of Calvert Island.  From West Beach, trails head south to nine other beaches or you can head north to three additional beaches.  These beaches are all beautiful with slightly different characteristics.  

Beach No. 2

We chose the “South Beaches” and found that the trails get progressively challenging as you go along; there are some boardwalk sections but most of the trails are damp and rutted, one needs to be careful not to get your foot under a tree root and do a face plant.  Ropes are provided to climb and descend the steep embankments to the various beaches, all part of the fun adventure.  

Lorena descending to Beach No. 3

We hope the ropes remain as an option when trail improvements are extended with additional steps and boardwalks.  The trails were muddy from the rain which had returned and mist hung over the sea making the experience a little eerie but still very beautiful and awe inspiring.  

Beach No. 5

Pruth Bay is a very special place not to be missed, rain or shine.  We reached the Fifth Beach and could see the Sixth Beach in the distance around the next corner, the west side of Calvert Island with its rugged coastline of high cliffs and series of sandy beaches is a wonderful place to hike and explore.  The afternoon was growing late so we turned around and headed back across the beaches, up and down the cliffs, and through the trees.  

Beach Trailheads marked with Flotsam

Thanks to each trailhead marked with multiple buoys and other flotsam at all the beaches, we could find our way back.  We noted that a plastic crate was left near the trailheads so people can deposit any trash or flotsam cleaned up from the beach(s) that had washed ashore.  One of the items was a palette with Asian lettering, perhaps something that had washed ashore from Japan as a result of the 2011 tsunami.  

Leonard descending back to Beach No. 4

As we walked through the series of beaches, we could tell that we needed the exercise, our legs were talking to us as we made the return trip back to the dingy.  

View of Beach No. 4, a steep descent

Java was happy to see us and probably wondered  why she didn’t get to go, we told her that she would not have liked the trails and would have been carried the whole way.

Aerial View of Calvert Island Beaches (boats in Pruth Bay at right)



Sea Anemones at Calvert Is. Beaches

Good Times at Ocean Falls



Denis and Leonard coming back with the crab pots

In addition to the good water used by boaters to fill their tanks, Ocean Falls is also a good place to find crab and we have never come up empty handed.  Denis invited Leonard to go with him in the dinghy to pick up three crab pots that had been set the night before.  All three pots had numerous crabs, more than was needed.  The one female among the bunch was tossed back (the crab that is) along with the smaller size crabs.  

Buckets of Crab

Once sorted into buckets, the next step was to dispatch the crab at the cleaning station provided at the docks.  

Dispatching the Crab

It was nearing lunch time and we were anticipating a wonderful feast.  We parceled out the crab and Mary put a pot of boiling water on the stove and I prepared another pot of boiling water aboard our boat next door.  Back on Teka III we poured off the hot water and rinsed with cold, we were ready for the feast – succulent fresh crab served with melted butter and lemon juice, a real treat.  

A Feast of Cooked Crab

Later that evening we attended the Ocean Falls community BBQ and Salmon Derby.  Locals and guests alike could attend the event for a nominal fee and the weather was perfect for the outdoor event.  We purchased tickets for the BBQ which included corn-on-the-cob, beans, and burgers with berry pie for dessert.  

Enjoying the Crab Feast on cockpit of Teka III

Those who participated in the Salmon Derby received prizes for the largest fish caught.  Raffle tickets were sold for “door prizes” such as hats and T-shirts; and the best prize of all was a ride in a small helicopter that had flown in from Shearwater for the event.  

Community BBQ at Ocean Falls (ruins in far background)

Three lucky guys had the right numbers on their tickets and got to go for a short ride over the area.  It was a fun party and we felt like we were getting to know some of the locals.  

Community BBQ, Ocean Falls

Gwen was there and so was Norman, a familiar face in the community who maintains a collection of items left behind when folks abandoned their homes (see previous blog post).  Norman enjoys showing visitors this collection located in the old dock warehouse – an antique shop or museum of sorts.  

"The Shack" (Harbormaster's Office)

We also participated in one of the movie nights held at “The Shack” (harbormaster’s office) and the pancake breakfast on Sunday morning before our departure – good fun and good memories.  Although Ocean Falls remains a ghost town, there seems to be an effort to revive the tradition of good times.  The town site of Ocean Falls actually started long before the Crown Zellerbach saga of the 1950’s, 60’s, and 70’s.  A crew of 25 men arrived at the head of Cousins Inlet in 1906 and cleared the land for a town site.   By 1909 a saw mill was in production and a store was built with 10 students attending classes on the second floor, a small hospital was operating on Front Street.  

Single Women's Dorm converted to a Hospital, Early 1900's (currently leased to a logging co.)

 A number of houses had been added by 1910 and a hotel was being built as well as the construction of a pulp mill and a dam at the head of the falls.  The Recession had begun in 1912 and the Ocean Falls Co. Limited went into receivership; a new company, Pacific Mills Limited, took over in 1915.  Around this time a new hospital was built and a doctor was brought to town as a permanent resident.  

Early 1900's Fire Station

By 1917 the town had grown and additional buildings added, including a fire hall, post office, customs building, and a dock warehouse.  

Early Waterfront Warehouses, Ocean Falls

Additional bunkhouses and apartments were built for the new workers.  The arrival of WWI brought a demand for strong, lightweight wood for construction of airplanes and the Sitka Spruce of north coast British Columbia met the need.  The Depression then hit in the 30’s but WWII once again brought the demand for Sitka Spruce.  The 1950’s and 60’s saw continued growth with Crown Zellerbach now the owner of the mill.  

A House in Ruins (1950's-60's)

By the 1970’s the mill facilities were old and Crown Zellerbach needed to cut costs and increase profits at other mills and so began phasing out operations in Ocean Falls.  

Restless Spirits Upstairs?  An Abandoned House

This was the beginning of the Ocean Falls ghost town saga with many of the buildings seen today in ruins along with a few building left from the earlier 1900's.