Modern-Day Ghost Town



Gunboat Passage

After a pleasant stop at Shearwater, we made our way through Gunboat Passage and turned north into Fisher Channel.  

Cousins Inlet and Martin Village in the distance

The sun shone on the imposing mountains as we entered Cousins Inlet.  Tucked inside this fjord is the tiny village of Martin lying at the foot of the mountains and a short distance up the inlet is the village of Ocean Falls located below an impressive dam.  

Dam at Ocean Falls

The dam produces electrical power for the local community as well as for Bella Bella and Shearwater.  

Lake behind the Dam at Ocean Falls

The dam was once the source of electrical power used to support the company town and paper mill of Crown Zellerbach which operated here.  

Trees and Vines taking over the 400 Room Martin Hotel

Once a vibrant city of 3,500 - 5,000 people during the 1960’s and 70’s, today there are only 25 permanent residents.  Most of the buildings from the 60’s and 70’s have since collapsed, but some still stand as haunting reminders of a once busy town with established neighborhoods, a hotel, school, hospital, athletic facilities, and community social events.  

Abandoned Dorm-style Housing

When the mill closed at Ocean Falls in 1973, Crown Zellerback made the effort to find jobs for their displaced employees at other mills, including the Crown Zellerbach mill at Camas, Washington where, coincidently, I grew up.  

Family Homes Stand Silent

In 1973 the provincial government bought the entire town of Ocean Falls, including the mill’s assets.  A new company was established, called Ocean Falls Corporation; but after only two years of profits, the business declined with losses peaking in 1979.  In March of 1980 the announcement was made that the entire mill would be shut down in three months.  

A Haunting Image that Stirs Emotion

Most of the remaining residents left while some stayed behind.  The people who abandoned their homes could only take a few of their possessions with them.  

Look of Foreboding

The government wanted to give the town their independence but in the process, demolished 200 apartments and 160 houses, demolition stopped once they realized the historical significance of the buildings.  As we rode our bicycles through this town overgrown by trees and vines, it stirred the emotions and the imagination.  

What Stories Told?

Homes, dorms, and office buildings that once stood along paved streets now are piles of rubble or are entombed in vines.  The homes are silent and the dark empty windows look foreboding.  

Guest Docks at Ocean Falls

Although the town is mostly in ruins, the docks for visiting boaters are well maintained and have power, water, and internet service.  

Guest Docks at Ocean Falls

Movie nights are held at the harbormaster’s office, called “The Shack” during the summer months and includes popcorn.  Friday night is crab feed and Saturday is potluck night on the docks; for early risers, a pancake breakfast is served on Sundays – donations for these affairs are appreciated.  

Lorena at The Fairy Rock

After touring Ocean Falls, we rode our bicycles to the bedroom community of Martin located about a mile from Ocean Falls.  We stopped along the way to see “the Fairy Rock.”  For generations, the children of Ocean Falls found coins hidden around this special pile of rocks.  The tradition is still carried on today for children visiting town, just be sure to let the harbormaster know so he can alert the fairies.  As we rode into Martin, we noticed that several homes and waterfront properties are for sale.  

Local Graveyard and Gwen's Pastry Shop in Martin

While the permanent population seems to be dwindling, we were told that other people are buying property as summer cabins.  The pub in town is also for sale which includes the house next door and an additional lot.  The pub is still in operation however and is open three days a week.  The other two businesses in town is a well cared for fishing lodge (Martin River Lodge) and a pastry-goods shop.  The pastry goods shop is run by Gwen Swan who was born and raised in Ocean Falls and previously worked in the hospital, then later worked at the school.  She now lives in Chemainus, B.C. but stays at her deceased brother’s house in Martin during the summer months.  

Yellow indicates what Remains in Ocean Falls

In addition to selling her baked goods, she has a wonderful collection of photographs, newspaper clippings, and student class photos - a curator of sorts for Ocean Falls.  

Newspaper Articles

She even has a directory of names and locations for the local cemetery.  She noted that those who had grown up here have come back to visit from time to time; class reunions are held elsewhere, normally in Campbell River, B.C.  While we were at Gwen’s shop, another lady stopped by who had also gone to school here, one of her classmates at Ocean Falls was an Olympian swimmer.  The opportunity to meet people that actually grew up here was a real treat and we viewed the photo albums with great interest.  We couldn’t leave of course without buying some homemade goods from Gwen, delicious cinnamon rolls with candied fruit.  

Shearwater as Seen Today

As we gazed out the window overlooking Cousins Inlet, we saw the outline of a familiar boat passing by, it was Teka III, time to get 

Inside the Martin Hotel now in ruins, Ocean Falls

back to the docks and back to the present time.