Anan Wildlife Observatory



Trail to Anan Wildlife Observatory

 

This morning John and I rode bicycles into town (Wrangell) to purchase day-use permits from the U.S Forest Service Office to visit the Anan Wildlife Observatory, a black/brown bear observation site located 30 miles south of Wrangell on remote mainland Alaska.  Although there are several tour operators in Wrangell, space on their tour boats are taken months in advance, primarily by tourists from cruise ships.  

John at the Anan Observatory

People wishing to visit the Anan Bear Site by private boat or seaplane must purchase a permit from the U.S. Forest Service which has a limited number of permits on a first-come, first-serve basis.  Permits are required during the peak season of July 5 – August 25.  John and I arrived at the Forest Service Office early in the morning and purchased three tickets from the four available that remained for the day, we were fortunate.  Hurrying back to the boat, we prepared to get underway for the five-hour motoring to the Anan Bear Site.  The rain had arrived once again but we had plenty of rain gear at the ready.  

Black Bear above the falls at Anan

After cruising south along Zimovia Strait and negotiating the twists and turns through Bradfield Canal, we arrived at the Anan Wildlife site around 1:30pm and set the anchor.  We had read that the temporary anchorage here has poor holding and that someone should remain onboard to monitor the boat.  Water in the small bay was calm and the anchor seemed to be holding but we went ashore in pairs to be on the safe side. 

John and I went ashore first and received a short briefing from the Ranger, then hiked the half-mile trail to the observation platform.  Like Pack Creek, bears at Anan have been habituated and feel comfortable with humans observing them.  The platform at Anan provides close-up views of the bears roaming the area around the falls of Anan Creek. 

There is also a covered area (photo blind) where photographers can get close-up shots near the falls without disturbing the bears.  We didn't see any Brown Bears but we were delighted to see numerous Black Bears both above and below the falls.  

Up-Close and Personal!

Bears even came up the hillside right next to the observation platform and stood very near the humans, now that’s what you call “an up-close” look!"  One bear made eye contact with me, but only briefly and then went about his business.  The salmon seemed a little sparse compared to Pack Creek and I felt sorry for one momma bear who was patiently waiting for a fish to provide nourishment to her two little cubs.  

Bear Cubs watching momma

The cute cubs were trying to be patient as well, sitting on a rock ledge watching momma search the falls for fish.  Anan is an impressive place and we didn’t want Leonard to miss out, so John and I headed back down the trail, calling on the VHF radio for Leonard to meet us at the shoreline with the dinghy. 

Cute Little Bear Cubs

It was my turn to take the dinghy back to the boat for “anchor watch” while Leonard and John hiked to the observation platform.  As they approached the platform, a Black Bear was on the trail about 10 feet in front of them near the gate, but the bear quickly passed by and headed down the steep embankment to the creek.  

Brief Eye Contact from a Black Bear

Leonard and John twice got to witness a bear catching his fish, carrying it up the hill, and then going under the platform to eat - apparently their favorite covered dining spot!  Anan Creek has some interesting history as well.  Archaeologists have recorded Tlingit fish trap sites along the Bradfield Canal that are more than 3,000 years old.  These sites served as summer fish camps including Anan Creek.  Radiocarbon dating of the broken stake ends of fish traps is one way that dates have been determined. 

Normally only one clan claimed salmon streams, but because of the abundance of fish in the area, several Tlingit clans shared ownership.  Like today, Anan is a site shared by people, bears, eagles, ravens, and sometimes mink and wolves might be seen; sea lions, seals, and otters are often present in the small bay.  The abundance of salmon at Anan attracted immigrants; and in 1901, the Pilot Fish Packing Co. took possession of fishing rights at the mouth of Anan Creek.  

Young Bear waiting for fish

A net was hung from a boom blocking the salmons’ passage up the stream, a gap was left in the net barrier for a fish wheel that rotated, scooping up the fish.  Fish caught at Anan were taken to Wrangell to be canned.  

Momma Bear searching for fish

Historic fish traps were so effective that they significantly reduced the salmon population.  Shortly after Alaska became a state in 1959, fish traps were outlawed and salmon stocks began to return.  

Momma Bear

Today Anan Creek is managed by the U.S. Forest Service which allows a maximum visitation of 60 people per day from July – August.  Permits are not required during the off season but guests are more likely to see bears during the peak season.  

Another Bear on the Scene

We departed Anan around 5:40pm and motored back northwest through Bradfield Canal arriving at Olive Cove on Etolin Island to anchor for the night around 8:25pm.  We would make the remaining two-hour motoring back to Wrangell the following morning so John could catch his flight back home to Clarkston, Washington.